Sweets

Almost any of Emporio Rulli's torta del forno - cakes from the oven - makes my list because like most Italian desserts, they are neither too sweet nor too rich. And unlike many Italian desserts, which are dry, these are naturally moist. The cooking of northeastern Italy owes a lot to Austria, and the apple strudel with a buttery glazed crust full of apples, nuts, orange rind, pine nuts and white raisins is just one example. There is also a brilliant version of Tuscany's traditional cheesecake, torta di ricotta, with a cookie crust and hints of Galliano in the filling.

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