Holy Panettone! For the nation's best Italian pastries - and more - bring your taste buds to Larkspur Demurely settled at the base of King Mountain in central Marin County, the town of Larkspur, about 15 miles north of San Francisco, has a culinary sophistication completely out of proportion to its size. Its 12,000 residents can sample English teas, organic greens, bouillabaisse Marseillaise, and Italian pastries without stepping far from the main strip, Magnolia Avenue. A delectable Larkspur day starts at Emporio Rulli, an authentic pasticceria with house-roasted coffee, gelato, chocolates, and, of course, pastries. Since opening in a tiny storefront 12 years ago, Gary and Jeannie Rulli have expanded their business twice, as acclaim grew for what Atlantic Monthly food critic Corby Kummer calls "the closest thing in America to a top-flight Italian pastry shop and café." Entering the store feels like stepping into a Venetian tea room. White-aproned servers stand behind mahogany display cases. A gold espresso machine gleams across the room from a mural of mad Italian pastry chefs. Nearby, tables and shelves are stocked with imported wines, candies, and ceramics. But the real stars here are the treats. All are made on the premises. You'll find crisp circular almond cookies called cialde, dry and sweet Sbrisolona cake, Pandolce, Panforte, a divine strawberry and chantilly cream-covered sponge cake called Amaretto Fantasia, and both Milanese and Genovese Panettone (the Milan version is cakier, Genoa's has more fruit and pine nuts). Plus tiny shortbread and almond cookies in dozens of shapes and colors, creamy chocolates, and gelato, including the pinnacle of ice cream sophistication - zabaglione. Eighteen years ago, on a visit to the old country with his Italian grandparents, Marin native Gary was inspired to create a real pasticceria in California. He says the secret to stellar desserts is simple: Follow tradition and use the best ingredients. "We only use buter," he says. "Puff pastry to Panettone -everything is made from scratch. In Italy, nothing is pre-made." So good are the café's desserts that the shop beat hundreds of other applicants for two spots at the new international terminal at San Francisco International Airport, opening in September. You can also buy their confections online. But a visit to Rulli is a sensory treat and offers the opportunity to sample Larkspur's other delights.    - By Lisa Taggart    Article Courtesy of Sunset - August 2000