The Ultimate Panettone If you're making only one dessert this month, this should be the one. Though it looks like an engineering feat, the dessert is actually more show than work, and you do most of the assembly a week ahead. The dessert slices easily, too. The recipe is a creation of Gary Rulli, owner of Pasticceria Rulli in Larkspur, California, just north of San Francisco. Like pastry shops in Italy, Rulli's bakes panettone all year long, but orders skyrocket in December, when the bread (plain, or filled like this) becomes the focus of holiday tables. This month other bakeries in the West create their own dried fruit-studded bread, while many upscale markets and Italian delicatessens import it from Italy year-round. Frozen Two-tone Panettone Use either a rounded, shorter panettone (shown at right, about 8 in. wide and 4 in. tall) or a taller cylinder shape (usually about 6 in. wide and 7 in. tall); just be sure to get the 2-pound (1kg.) size. Panettones may be labeled Turin- or Milan-style, or with other city names; avoid the Genovese, a flatter, dense fruitcake. Allow plenty of space in the freezer and refrigerator. 6 large egg yolks ½ cup sugar 3 tablespoons all-purpose flour 1 1/3 cups milk 1 strip (3/4 in. by 2 in.) lemon peel (colored part only) 1 teaspoon vanilla 3 ounces bittersweet or semisweet chocolate chopped ½ cup chopped high-quality candied orange peel, preferably imported 2 tablespoons dark rum 2 ¼ cups whipping cream Nut brittle (recipe follows) Segments from 2 medium-size (about ½ lb. each) oranges, with peel and membrane cut off Citrus leaves (optional) In a bowl of an electric mixer, beat yolks and sugar until thick, then beat in flour. In a 2- to 3-quart pan over medium-high heat, stir milk and lemon peel often until simmering, 3 to 4 minutes; discard peel. Beat milk into yolk mixture. Return to pan; whisk over medium-low heat just until custard starts to bubble, 4 to 5 minutes (don't overcook or custard will lump). Remove from heat; stir in vanilla. Spoon half of custard into a medium-size bowl. To custard remaining in pan, add chocolate; stir until melted. Stir in orange peel and rum. Let custards cool slightly; chill airtight until cold, 45 to 50 minutes. In bowl of an electric mixer, beat 1 ¼ cups cream until thick. Working with half of it, stir ½ cup into chocolate custard, then gently fold in the rest. Chop 1/3 of nut brittle and stir into plain custard with ½ cup of remaining whipped cream; fold in rest of cream. Chill custards airtight until used, up to 1 hour. Peel off and discard paper collar from panettone. With a long serrated knife, hollow out panettone as shown at right in steps 1, 2, and 3. Line a rimmed plate or dish with plastic wrap; place panettone shell in it upside down. Brush 2/3 cup orange syrup over inside of shell. Patch knife opening (and any other holes) inside shell with thin slice of panettone core taken from cut side. As shown in steps 4 and 5, fill panettone with chocolate and nut custards, then seal with slice from bottom of core. Wrap panettone airtight and freeze upside down for at least 8 hours or up to 1 week. Store remaining panettone core and nut brittle airtight up to 2 days; or freeze up to 1 week (thaw to use). Store remaining syrup airtight up to 1 week. To assemble for serving, tear reserved core into 1- to 2-inch pieces; place in a large bowl, and mix evenly with reserved syrup. In the bowl of an electric mixer, beat remaining 1 cup cream until soft peaks form. Unwrap panettone and place right side up on a platter. Leaving a border of crust, lay 4 or 5 large dollops of whipped cream on top of panettone. Use cream to anchor panettone chunks, brittle, and orange segments as in step 6. Repeat several times, narrowing layers to form a cone shape. Decorate with citrus leaves. Refrigerate panettone at least 45 minutes or up to 2 hours. With a sturdy knife, cut panettone gently through toppings, then firmly through base, into wedges. Gently wrap any leftovers airtight and refreeze up to 3 days (orange pieces may be slightly dry after freezing). Serves 16. Nut Brittle. Place ¼ cup each hazelnuts, shelled salted pistachios, walnuts, and slivered almonds in a 10- by 15-inch baking pan. Bake in a 350 degree oven until almonds are golden, 8 to 9 minutes. In a 1- to 2-quart pan over medium-high heat, stir 2/3 cup sugar and 2 tablespoons corn syrup often until sugar melts and turns light amber, about 5 minutes. Add warm nuts; protecting hands, stir until syrup is deep amber, 1 to 2 minutes more. Spread candy as thinly as possible on a buttered 12- by 15-inch baking sheet; let cool. Flex pan to loosen the candy; break brittle into 1- to 2-inch chunks. Orange syrup. In a 1- to 1 ½ -quart pan over high heat, bring ¾ cup sugar, ½ cup water, and 1 tablespoon light corn syrup to a boil, stirring often, 3 to 4 minutes. Let cool, then stir in 1/3 cup orange-flavored liqueur.    - By Elaine Johnson    Article Courtesy of Sunset - December 1994